Vino Nobile from Montepulciano in southern Tuscany undoubtedly belongs to the top league of Italian wines. Even though the once very big name has become a little quieter. Wrongly, because the Sangiovese of local producers does not have to hide at all. Neither in price nor in quality.
Edoardo Mottini is the name of the young owner of the Talosa wine estate. He believes in the future of his Vino Nobile, the wine of the nobles, as Sangiovese has been called here since the Middle Ages. His ultra-modern winery is located above a picturesque valley, on the flanks of which there are best vineyards. The almost shy estate owner regrets in finest Italian that many consumers in the north confuse the grape variety Montepulciano d'Abruzzo with the wine from Montepulciano. Yet, Vino Nobile consists of first-class Sangiovese grapes, which thrive here better than elsewhere.
Edoardo Mottini mentions almost casually that the famous oenologist Umberto Trombelli from Sassicaia also works for him. "Site, soils, and microclimate are perfect for Sangiovese - it would be a shame if we didn't put the enology in the best hands, too." He is assisted by local Alessandra Santinelli, who puts her heart and soul into her work. "Talosa's vineyard is one of the most unique in the world," she says enthusiastically, proving her point by handing me palm-sized fossilized mussels. "Millions of years old! If we plow up the earth in the vineyard, we'll find fossils everywhere under the vines - shells and snails from the primordial sea." Indeed, Talosa's Sangiovese thrives on a unique terrain!
"The location, soils and microclimate are perfect for Sangiovese - it would be a shame if we didn't put the enology in the best hands too."
Edoardo Mottini on the reason for the collaboration with Sassicaia oenologist Umberto Trombelli
The old Talosa winery is located on the street of the same name in the centre of Montepulciano. It has now become too narrow and too small. But in the stylish Enoteca, visitors can taste the excellent red wines of Talosa. Next door, a steep staircase leads down into the depths. The cellars, which were carved out of tuff stone as early as the Middle Ages, extend under the palazzi around the main square of this picturesque little town. Numerous oak barrels are stored underground, behind which fossilized shells protrude from the rock walls. Groups can experience stylish wine tastings in this time-honored cantina.
Back on the upper floor of the winery, the hosts invite us to a tavolata: On the table are garden-fresh vegetables in baskets, inviting meat platters and a glass of Talosa. The excellent Cuvee from Sangiovese and a little Merlot not only tastes excellent, it also has a hit price-performance ratio. Then our host uncorks his best bottles: purple Talosa Riserva, aged three years in barrique, pours into my glass. A drink of the gods. Then very fine Filai Lunghi, single-varietal Sangiovese. Heavenly! Proudly, the cultivated host Edoardo Mottini now also lets us taste wines that are ten years old and older. A true revelation! The Vino Nobile lives up to its name - it offers royal wine enjoyment.
Text: Daminan Zingg | Image: Flavia Vergani | Source: Vergani Magazine 6